La règle "Sunny Sixteen" s'applique aux objets éclairés par le soleil. Sur la photo que vous avez prise en utilisant la règle, les choses qui sont éclairées directement par le soleil sont bien exposées, c'est-à-dire les sommets coupés des branches, ainsi que leur côté ensoleillé et les zones ensoleillées du nid.

Les feuilles sont un peu problématiques, car elles sont relativement cireuses; les parties des feuilles qui seraient vertes sont également ombragées, ou du moins étant éclairées sous un angle très raide, et les parties qui reçoivent beaucoup de lumière directe vous donnent également une réflexion spéculaire du revêtement protecteur des feuilles. (Vous pouvez réduire ou éliminer ce reflet bleu / blanc à l'aide d'un filtre polarisant, vous laissant un vert plus clair à partir de la feuille en dessous.)

Il semble que vous vouliez une image du nid, qui est principalement dans l'ombre. (Et oui, votre deuxième photo, celle prise au 1 / 30s, est assez surexposée, mais est probablement récupérable si vous avez le fichier brut.)

Ce n'est donc pas que "Sunny Sixteen" a échoué. Vous essayiez simplement de prendre une photo là où "Sunny Sixteen" ne s'appliquait pas, car le sujet n'était pas entièrement éclairé par le soleil. La plupart de la lumière provenait du ciel / reflets, pas directement du soleil.

I have to be honest, I think the first is better. It's darker, sure, but that's probably more the JPEG conversion settings in the camera than anything. From my perspective, I think you could do a lot more with the first image using RAW data and maybe a marginal lift in exposure. Point is, you didn't clip the highlights with that and it gives you room to work that is lost in the second image.

In any event, the thing to remember is that the "Sunny 16" rule is a rule of thumb for bright daylight and film, sensors aren't actually film and there's always a little variance. It's not uncommon for ISO setting on the camera to not exactly match ISO for film (DxOMark tests that) and, in the case you have here, ISO 100 setting may actually really be a touch less on the sensor in comparison to film. So, knowing that, in the future you just make a slight adjustment to your settings to compensate (e.g. use exposure compensation) if needed. Better yet, shoot RAW and take care of it when converting after the fact.

I think you have a worse problem than the "failure" of Sunny 16 (as user32334 said, it doesn't apply here)--given the light conditions I don't think that nest can be properly exposed with any settings--there's too much difference between the lit portion and the portion in shadow.

I strongly suspect the only way you're getting a good shot is to shade the whole thing and increase the exposure accordingly.

La règle ensoleillée 16 capture une scène ensoleillée avec précision . Il ne le capture pas nécessairement tel que vous le percevez ou le souhaitez. Par exemple, vous pouvez utiliser la règle du soleil 16 pour prendre des photos de la lune, car il s'agit d'un objet éclairé par le soleil. Mais il apparaîtra gris foncé, qui est en fait sa vraie couleur. Nous percevons généralement la lune comme plus brillante, presque blanche, car nous avons l'habitude de la voir la nuit sur un fond sombre. Donc, pour obtenir une photo de la lune telle que vous la percevez, vous devez commencer par la règle des 16 ensoleillés, puis l'ouvrir d'un ou deux arrêts supplémentaires.

Sunny 16 assumes that the ISO is 100. With film (when this rule came about) that worked because the dynamic range of the film people were shooting (print) was sufficient to capture the scene when they lacked a camera that had a light meter in it. Even then people would sometimes tweak their exposures (shooting Velvia 50 at 80). Those who were really into it didn't even trust the label and would buy a brick of film, shoot one roll for standardized tests and stick the rest of it in the freezer (keeping note of the batch number) so that they can develop it perfectly for what its actual ISO and conditions where. Others would just do a clip test on each roll.

There are no digital cameras that lack a light meter (that I'm aware of at least). That brings us to the ISO sensitivity of the sensor. Going from DxO for the Canon 650D, its actually fairly accurate:

Other cameras can be less accurate (related article: ISO Lies: When ISO 100 is really 72:

_{(source: adorama.com)}

This (not yours) camera is almost a full stop stop slower than what its ISO claims. If you tried shooting the Sunny 16 with that camera, you'd be getting underexposed images consistently.

Next, the Sunny 16 is just a ballpark estimate. Unless you know exactly what the amount of light and what you want to expose for you are getting (varies with latitude and time of day quite substantially), you can be off. Not everyone knows that the full moon is 250 c/ft² or how to translate that into the proper exposure.

Abiding with the Sunny 16 only is for those people who are trying to take a photo with a holga (you have 1/100 or 1/125 for shutter speed and f/8 or maybe f/11 for the aperture) and need to pick the right film to load in the camera (is it cloudy? sunny? indoors?).

For everyone else, if you've got a light meter, use it. Ballpark estimates are for when you aren't sure and just want a photo in the ballpark. Its better to be sure if you can be.

In your case, Sunny 16 didn't fail. It captured an image that was not completely illuminated by the noon sun (it was in the shade). It captured the leaves quite acceptably, though the subject that you were really after is completely in the shade.

Some random advice for the scene:

• Put a polarizer on the lens. This will cut down the reflections from nonmetallic surfaces (such as leaves) allowing you to capture the green of the leaves rather than the silver of the reflected sun. It also cuts down the necessary dynamic range.
• Use the 'partial' metering mode (9% at the center) or center weighted and compose the image the same as you did (with the nest at the center) (see page 115 of the manual for metering modes). This lets the camera know what you are interested in actually photographing and exposing properly.

I'll also point out that I prefer the first photograph over the second.

La lumière du soleil dans la scène vient de la droite. Ce n'est donc pas f / 16 mais f / 11 (f / 16 uniquement lorsque la lumière du soleil est directement derrière vous et devant votre sujet).

Donc: f / 11, ISO 100, Vitesse d'obturation: 1 / 100 ou: f / 16, ISO 100, vitesse d'obturation: 1/50

Les deux expositions sont plus correctes et plus proches de votre automatique!